Dog Training: Digging Behavior and Correction

December 21st, 2009

When it comes to dog training there are two differing sides of opinion when it comes to dogs and their digging habits. Firstly, many dog trainers think that a dog is a dog, and we should permit him to express his true canine nature by allowing him free reign over the yard and flowerbeds. The other dog training experts feel that a flowerbed is a flowerbed, and no dog should even think about expression his dogginess if such an expression comes at the price of a ruined flowerbed.

Most leading dog training experts favor the middle ground for training your dog. Although many dogs do love to dig, and it is healthy for them to be permitted to dig once in a while, there’s a difference between allowing your dog to express their inner puppy, and allowing him to run rampant in the backyard. No dog training professional would agree that a dog should have to come at the price of a garden, and vice versa. When if comes to dog training, flowers and dogs can coexist peacefully if you train your dog correctly. If your dog’s developed a taste for digging, it will just take a bit of time, and some ingenuity, on your part to resolve the dog training problem satisfactorily.

To start with, if you have yet to adopt a dog and your concern for the fate of your garden is purely hypothetical, consider the breed of dog that you would like. If you’ve got your eye on a specific mixed-breed dog, what aspect of his mixed dog heritage seems to be the most prominent?

Dog breed often plays a significant role in any given dog’s personal opinion of digging as a rewarding and valuable dog pastime – many terriers and Nordic breeds in particular (Huskies, Malamutes, some members of the Spitz family for example) seem to particularly enjoy digging.

Every dog training expert will, of course, say that when you get right down to the sum and substance, every dog is first and foremost an individual, and there’s no real way to predict whether or not your chosen four legged friend is going to be a burrower or not. However, if you’re trying to reduce the likelihood of an involuntarily-landscaped garden as much as possible, It is suggested you stay away from all breeds of terrier (and for those that did not know, the name means ‘go to earth’, after all!) and the Nordic breeds.

Why do dogs dig?

Dog training professionals often agree on the following reasons, and they are in no particular order, as to why a dog will dig:

* General Lack of exercise. Digging is a good way for a hyped-up, under-exercised dog to burn off some of their nervous energy.

* Boredom. Bored dogs will find a ‘job’ to do, something rewarding and interesting, to help the time pass by.

* Digging is often the ideal solution for a bored dog: it gives him a sense of purpose, and distracts him from an otherwise-empty day.

* The need for broader horizons. Some dogs are just escape artists by nature – no matter how much exercise and attention they get, it’s nearly impossible to confine them to an area. For a Doggy-Houdini, it’s not the digging itself that is the reward, it is the wonderful unknown that exists beyond the boundaries they were confined to and dogs love to explore a world of unfamiliar scents.

* Separation anxiety. Often when a dog is seriously pining for your company, digging under those confining walls represents the most direct path to you. Separation anxiety is an unpleasant psychological issue relatively common among dogs – but because it’s so complex, we won’t be dealing with it in this article but keep an eye out because I will be writing about that in detail in another article.

Training the habit out of your dog

Dog training experts agree that most of the reasons contributing to your dog’s desire to dig suggest their own solutions. If your dog’s not getting enough exercise (generally speaking, at least forty-five minutes worth of vigorous walking per day), take him for more walks it will help you and your dog stay fit and healthy. If your dog is bored, give him some interesting and durable toys and chews to play with during your absence, and wear him out before you leave so he spends most of the day napping. As for an escape-artist dog, they might need to be crated, or at least kept inside the house where he’s less likely to be able to break out of his or her confines.

For those dogs who just like to dig as a pastime in itself, though, here are a few basic dog training tips for controlling inappropriate excavation as much as is reasonably possible:

* Restrict your dog’s access to the area concerned. This is the most effective thing you can do: if he’s never in the yard without active supervision, there’s no opportunity for digging his own personal tunneling system.

* Use a natural deterrent. Almost all dogs will shy back, horrified, from the prospect of digging anywhere that there’s dog poop. Even the ones who like to eat poop (a condition known as coprophagia) generally won’t dig anywhere near it as it offends their basic natural, fastidious dislike of soiling their coat and paws.

* Use nature’s own protection. If the continued digging is bothering you because it’s upsetting the more delicate blooms in your garden, plant hardier blossoms: preferably, those with deep roots and thorny defenses. Roses are ideal and a natural deterrent.

* A more time-consuming, but super-effective way of dog training is to roll up the first inch or two of turf in your yard, and lay down chicken-wire underneath it. Your dog won’t know it is there until he’s had a few tries at digging, but once he’s convinced himself that it’s pointless (which won’t take long), he’ll never dig in that yard again. As we say, time consuming but very, very effective.

Accept your dog’s need for an outlet, give him a place to dig

If your dog is set on tunneling your yard into a pot marked, grassless lunar landscape, but you’re equally determined to prevent this from happening at all costs, take a moment to consider before embarking on a grueling and time-consuming preventative strategy.

Setting yourself the goal of eradicating all digging behavior, period, is pretty unrealistic. It is not fair on you (since, really, you’re setting yourself up for failure), and it’s not really fair on your poor dog either. If he’s a natural-born digging machine, it’s just part of his personality, and he needs at least some opportunity to express that in some form.

But a lawn and a dog don’t have to be mutually exclusive. The most humane and understanding thing for you to do in this case is simply to redirect his digging energy where you can live with it and he can love you for it.

The simplest dog training solution in this case is allocating him an area where he’s allowed to dig as much as he pleases. Once this zone’s been established, you can make it understood that there is to be absolutely no digging in the rest of the garden, and you can enforce your rules with a clear conscience. As set these boundaries you know your dog now has his own little corner of the world to turn upside down and inside out as he chooses and all parties are happy.

But what if you don’t have a “spare corner” of the backyard for your little digger to call his own? What if the whole thing, grass, flowerbeds, and gravel path, is just too dear to your heart? This is ok, there is a solution to this as well. You can invest in a sandbox, which you can place anywhere in the garden.

You can even make one yourself (the deeper, the better, obviously). Fill it with a mixture of sand and earth, and put some leaves or grass on top if you like for effect and get your dog interested in it by having a scratch around yourself, until he gets the idea.

Ensuring the boundaries are clear

One great dog training tip is to make it clear to him that the sandbox is OK but that everywhere else is a no-dig zone, spend a little time supervising him. When he starts to dig in the box (you can encourage this by shallowly burying a few choice marrowbones in there), praise him energetically – and if he starts digging anywhere else, correct him straight away with an extended finger or hand command and state a firm “No!” or “ahh-ah-ahhhh”.

Then, redirect him immediately to the sandbox, and dole out vociferous praise when digging recommences.

To really clarify the lesson, give him a treat when digging gets underway in the sandbox – the close proximity between the correction (for digging out of the sandbox) and praise/reward (for digging in the sandbox) will ensure that your point strikes home and you will have dog training success.

If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our dog training website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your dog with immediate results. No matter what your dog training problem there is a solution and this fantastic dog training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now!
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Dog Training: Recognizing, Preventing, and Handling Dog Aggression

December 21st, 2009

A dog is an instinctively aggressive creature. In the wild, aggression came in very handy: dogs needed aggression to hunt, to defend themselves from other creatures, and to defend resources such as food, a place to sleep, and a mate. Selective breeding over the centuries has minimized and refined this trait significantly, but there’s just no getting around it: dogs are physically capable of inflicting serious harm (just look at those teeth!) because that’s how they’ve survived and evolved. And Mother Nature is pretty wily – it’s hard to counteract the power of instinct!

But that doesn’t mean that we, as dog lovers and owners, are entirely helpless when it comes to handling our dogs. There’s a lot that we can do to prevent aggression from rearing its ugly head in the first place – and even if prevention hasn’t been possible (for whatever reason), there are still steps that we can take to recognize and deal with it efficiently.

- Different aggression types -

There are several different types of canine aggression. The two most common ones are:

- Aggression towards strangers

- Aggression towards family members

You may be wondering why we’re bothering categorizing this stuff: after all, aggression is aggression, and we want to turf it out NOW, not waste time with the details – right?

Well … not quite. These two different types of aggression stem from very different causes, and require different types of treatment.

- Aggression towards strangers -

What is it?

It’s pretty easy to tell when a dog’s nervy around strange people. He’s jumpy and on the alert: either he can’t sit still and is constantly fidgeting, leaping at the smallest sound, and pacing around barking and whining; or he’s veerrrry still indeed, sitting rock-steady in one place, staring hard at the object of his suspicions (a visitor, the mailman, someone approaching him on the street while he’s tied up outside a store.)

Why does it happen?

There’s one major reason why a dog doesn’t like strange people: he’s never had the chance to get used to them. Remember, your dog relies 100% on you to broaden his horizons for him: without being taken on lots of outings to see the world and realize for himself, through consistent and positive experiences, that the unknown doesn’t necessarily equal bad news for him, how can he realistically be expected to relax in an unfamiliar situation?

What can I do about it?

The process of accustoming your dog to the world and all the strange people (and animals) that it contains is called socialization. This is an incredibly important aspect of your dog’s upbringing: in fact, it’s pretty hard to overemphasize just how important it is. Socializing your dog means exposing him from a young age (generally speaking, as soon as he’s had his vaccinations) to a wide variety of new experiences, new people, and new animals.

How does socialization prevent stranger aggression?

When you socialize your dog, you’re getting him to learn through experience that new sights and sounds are fun, not scary.

It’s not enough to expose an adult dog to a crowd of unfamiliar people and tell him to “Settle down, Roxy, it’s OK” – he has to learn that it’s OK for himself. And he needs to do it from puppyhood for the lesson to sink in.

The more types of people and animals he meets (babies, toddlers, teenagers, old people, men, women, people wearing uniforms, people wearing motorcycle helmets, people carrying umbrellas, etc) in a fun and relaxed context, the more at ease and happy – and safe around strangers - he’ll be in general.

How can I socialize my dog so that he doesn’t develop a fear of strangers?

Socializing your dog is pretty easy to do – it’s more of a general effort than a specific training regimen.

First of all, you should take him to puppy preschool. This is a generic term for a series of easy group-training classes for puppies (often performed at the vet clinic, which has the additional benefit of teaching your dog positive associations with the vet!).

In a puppy preschool class, about ten or so puppy owners get together with a qualified trainer (often there’ll be at least two trainers present – the more there are, the better, since it means you get more one-on-one time with a professional) and start teaching their puppies the basic obedience commands: sit, stay, and so on.

Even though the obedience work is very helpful and is a great way to start your puppy on the road to being a trustworthy adult dog, really the best part of puppy preschool is the play sessions: several times throughout the class, the puppies are encouraged to run around off-leash and play amongst themselves.

This is an ideal environment for them to learn good social skills: there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar dogs present (which teaches them how to interact with strange dogs), there’s a whole bunch of unfamiliar people present (which teaches them that new faces are nothing to be afraid of), and the environment is safe and controlled (there’s at least one certified trainer present to make sure that things don’t get out of hand).

Socialization doesn’t just stop with puppy preschool, though. It’s an ongoing effort throughout the life of your puppy and dog: he needs to be taken to a whole bunch of new places and environments.

Remember not to overwhelm him: start off slow, and build up his tolerance gradually.

- Aggression towards family members -

There are two common reasons why a dog is aggressive towards members of his own human family:

- He’s trying to defend something he thinks of as his from a perceived threat (you).

This is known as resource guarding, and though it may sound innocuous, there’s actually a lot more going on here than your dog simply trying to keep his kibble to himself.

- He’s not comfortable with the treatment/handling he’s getting from you or other members of the family.

What’s resource guarding?

Resource guarding is pretty common among dogs. The term refers to overly-possessive behavior on behalf of your dog: for instance, snarling at you if you approach him when he’s eating, or giving you “the eye” (a flinty-eyed, direct stare) if you reach your hand out to take a toy away from him.

All dogs can be possessive from time to time – it’s in their natures. Sometimes they’re possessive over things with no conceivable value: inedible trash, balled up pieces of paper or tissue, old socks. More frequently, however, resource-guarding becomes an issue over items with a very real and understandable value: food and toys.

Why does it happen?

It all boils down to the issue of dominance. Let me take a moment to explain this concept: dogs are pack animals. This means that they’re used to a very structured environment: in a dog-pack, each individual animal is ranked in a hierarchy of position and power (or “dominance”) in relation to every other animal. Each animal is aware of the rank of every other animal, which means he knows specifically how to act in any given situation (whether to back down, whether to push the issue, whether to muscle in or not on somebody else’s turf, etc etc).

To your dog, the family environment is no different to the dog-pack environment. Your dog has ranked each member of the family, and has his own perception of where he ranks in that environment as well.

This is where it gets interesting: if your dog perceives himself as higher up on the social totem-pole than other family members, he’s going to get cheeky. If he’s really got an overinflated sense of his own importance, he’ll start to act aggressively.

Why? Because dominance and aggression are the exclusive rights of a superior-ranked animal. No underdog would ever show aggression or act dominantly to a higher-ranked animal (the consequences would be dire, and he knows it!)

Resource guarding is a classic example of dominant behavior: only a higher-ranked dog (a “dominant” dog) would act aggressively in defence of resources.

To put it plainly: if it was clear to your dog that he is not, in fact, the leader of the family, he’d never even dream of trying to prevent you from taking his food or toys – because a lower-ranking dog (him) will always go along with what the higher-ranking dogs (you and your family) say.

So what can I do about it? The best treatment for dominant, aggressive behavior is consistent, frequent obedience work, which will underline your authority over your dog. Just two fifteen-minute sessions a day will make it perfectly clear to your dog that you’re the boss, and that it pays to do what you say.

You can make this fact clear to him by rewarding him (with treats and lavish praise) for obeying a command, and isolating him (putting him in “time-out”, either outside the house or in a room by himself) for misbehaviour.

- If you’re not entirely confident doing this yourself, you may wish to consider enlisting the assistance of a qualified dog-trainer.

- Brush up on your understanding of canine psychology and communication, so that you understand what he’s trying to say – this will help you to nip any dominant behaviors in the bud, and to communicate your own authority more effectively

- Train regularly: keep obedience sessions short and productive (no more than fifteen minutes – maybe two or three of these per day).

Why doesn’t my dog like to be handled?

All dogs have different handling thresholds. Some dogs like lots of cuddles, and are perfectly content to be hugged, kissed, and have arms slung over their shoulders (this is the ultimate “I’m the boss” gesture to a dog, which is why a lot of them won’t tolerate it.) Others – usually the ones not accustomed to a great deal of physical contact from a very young age – aren’t comfortable with too much full-body contact and will get nervy and agitated if someone persists in trying to hug them.

Another common cause of handling-induced aggression is a bad grooming experience: nail-clipping and bathing are the two common culprits.

When you clip a dog’s nails, it’s very easy to “quick” him – that is, cut the blood vessel that runs inside the nail. This is extremely painful to a dog, and is a sure-fire way to cause a long-lasting aversion to those clippers.

Being washed is something that a great many dogs have difficulty dealing with – a lot of owners, when confronted with a wild-eyed, half-washed, upset dog, feel that in order to complete the wash they have to forcibly restrain him. This only adds to the dog’s sense of panic, and reinforces his impression of a wash as something to be avoided at all costs – if necessary, to defend himself from it with a display of teeth and hackles.

Can I “retrain” him to enjoy being handled and groomed?

In a word: yes. It’s a lot easier if you start from a young age – handle your puppy a lot, get him used to being touched and rubbed all over. Young dogs generally enjoy being handled – it’s only older ones who haven’t had a lot of physical contact throughout their lives that sometimes find physical affection difficult to accept.

Practice picking up his paws and touching them with the clipper; practice taking him into the bath (or outside, under the faucet – whatever works for you, but warm water is much more pleasant for a dog than a freezing spray of ice-water!), and augment the process throughout with lots of praise and the occasional small treat.

For an older dog that may already have had several unpleasant handling/grooming experiences, things are a little more difficult. You need to undo the damage already caused by those bad experiences, which you can do by taking things very slowly – with an emphasis on keeping your dog calm.

The instant he starts to show signs of stress, stop immediately and let him relax. Try to make the whole thing into a game: give him lots of praise, pats, and treats.

Take things slowly. Don’t push it too far: if you get nervous, stop.

Dogs show aggression for a reason: they’re warning you to back off, or else! If your dog just can’t seem to accept being groomed, no matter how much practice you put in, it’s best to hand the job over to the professionals.

Your vet will clip his nails for you (make sure you tell him first that he gets aggressive when the clippers come out, so your vet can take the necessary precautions!). As far as washing and brushing goes, the dog-grooming business is a flourishing industry: for a small fee, you can get your dog washed, clipped, brushed, and whatever else you require by experienced professionals (again, make sure you tell them about your dog’s reaction to the experience first!)

If you like this article, you will find much more useful dog training information on our dog training website Dog Training Success where you will find useful tips, tricks and an amazing guide that will help you train your dog with immediate results. No matter what your dog training problem there is a solution and this fantastic dog training guide will show you how to handle each and every situation in detail. Can you afford not to find our more? Click Here Now!
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Flock Guardian Dogs

December 21st, 2009

Livestock guarding dogs and livestock herding dogs both fall under the umbrella category of sheepdogs, but it is important to understand that these are two very different dog breeds. Livestock Guardian Dogs (LGDs) were developed and bred to protect livestock from predators such as: wolves, jackals, coyotes, baboons, leopards, bears etc. Herding dogs on the other hand were developed and bred to…well, herd!

Livestock guarding dogs date back several thousand years and even as far back as 2000 years ago were a common sight in many parts of the world. Though many of these working dogs were considered until recently as rare breeds in the West, the truth is there are and have been millions of these dogs plying their trade of protecting livestock all over the world. In fact the protection of livestock could well have been one of the first primary uses mankind had for dogs.

It is not unreasonable to hypothesize that livestock guarding dogs originated from the Middle East especially when one considers that is from there that livestock was first domesticated. Following this pattern of thought it is not unreasonable either to state that livestock protection breeds may be several thousands of years old though they certainly wouldn’t predate the first domesticated animals (sheep; circa 8000 years ago). There are plenty of historical references and drawings of livestock guardian dogs dating back thousands of years.

When one thinks of livestock protection dogs typically certain breeds spring to mind. Such breeds include the following:

Anatolian Shepherd Dog

Kangal Dog

Akbash Dog

Caucasian Ovcharka

Great Pyrenees

Tibetan Mastif

Kuvasz

Komondor

Maremma Sheepdog

Polish Tatra Sheepdog

Tibetan Mastiff

SarplaninacSize And Appearance

The above list is certainly not an exhaustive one and though some of the breeds are quite well known others are not. A striking feature of most livestock guarding dogs is that they tend to be larger in size than most other canines. This actually shouldn’t come as too much of a surprise since these canines were bred to ward off predators some of which attain considerable size such as bears and wolves. Another notable feature about livestock protection dogs is that very often they are white (a characteristic more commonly found in European based breeds). There’re a number of reasons to explain the tendency to favor white in these dogs ranging from plain superstition to the age-old myth that white embodies purity of strain.

Most local shepherds contend that they prefer white dogs because they blend in with the flock and thus are harder to detect by any marauding wolves or other predators. Another argument along this line of thinking is that the shepherd is less likely to mistake a white livestock guardian dog for a wolf at night and thereby accidentally club it to death. However, whatever the argument, the fact remains that a good number of livestock guardian dogs are white in color which fact probably owes credit to selective culling of litters by local shepherds more than anything else.

Livestock guarding dogs tend to have large litters an aspect that bears an obvious economical burden on the shepherd. Not only is it economically unviable for the shepherd to keep all the puppies, the female dog will naturally tend to be somewhat derelict in her livestock protecting duties for the simple fact that she has a large litter of puppies to attend to. Culling by shepherds tends to favor white puppies for all the above listed reasons, which process (known as postzygotic selection–refining a natural breed) ultimately leads to generations that breed pure for the desired white coat.

Another driving force motivating culling in favor of white puppies is sales to tourists and foreign breed fanciers who are more willing to pay top dollar for snow white puppies. That said, there are plenty of livestock protection canines that are not white and one interesting feature of several regional breeds is that their coat patterns often have a tendency to mirror that of the livestock they guard. Thus for example the Kangal Dog in appearance has a light dun to fawn-gray coat with a black mask head; this pattern unsurprisingly mirrors the features of the sheep found in the region. Undoubtedly the reason why the Kangal Dog breeds pure for these traits is probably because local shepherds favored those animals that displayed such features.What Defines A Good Livestock Guardian Dog?

Generally speaking the bigger the dog the better it will be as a livestock protector. Ironically the impact of increased size is not so much to ward off predators but rather to ensure that the dog can endure the hardships often encountered by these working dogs. In those countries and regions where shepherds still embark on seasonal migratory treks with their flocks covering huge distances, the toll on the animals (both the sheep and the dogs) can be tremendous.

A bigger dog has the advantage of not only being able to cover greater distances more easily than a smaller counterpart (larger stride), the bigger dog will also be able to endure food scarcities better because it has greater fat reserves. A large dog also has an added advantage; it can endure harsh, cold weather far better because of less heat loss thanks to its lower surface-to-volume ratio.

Certain dog breeds are obviously better suited to the task of protecting livestock than others due to selective breeding for desirable traits over hundreds if not thousands of years. For this reason, innate livestock protecting canines tend to be:

Independent minded (what some describe as aloof or stubborn);

Wary of strangers:

Dog unfriendly;

Territorial; and

Very protective of their wards.

These are all desirable traits in working dogs employed in the livestock-protection profession and such genetic-based traits are what constitute the “nature” component of the “nature vs. nurture” equation. External factors that influence the behavior of prospective flock guardians (nurture component) include the timely socialization of puppies with their future wards so that they ultimately bond as the dogs primary social companions.

Dogs that make the best LGDs are those individuals that are properly socialized within the critical period (normally from 4 - 16 weeks in canines) and also possess the correct genetic makeup for the task. In other words, inherent livestock-guarding dog breeds that are timely socialized with their future livestock wards will make better guardians than timely socialized dog breeds that lack the innate LGDs genetic makeup.Flock Guardian Dogs

Kayye Nynne is the webmaster of http://www.dog-breeds-spot.com
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Dog Training Harness

December 20th, 2009

One of the many things you may want to get for your dog when starting to train them is a good, sturdy dog training harness, as part of your dog supplies to have. A good harness should fit comfortably on your dog and have enough padding to prevent any escaping or injuries that could occur while wearing the harness. Having your dog wear a harness is a way to keep better control when walking your dog. Pulling a dog by the neck using a choke chain is really uncomfortable. Also a tugging dog will prevent itself from getting enough oxygen when it’s pulling on the lead, and we certainly do not want that! You do not want the dog to get scared of wearing a collar or harness because of something like that happening. Do not get frustrated or tug on the harness. Heel is pretty easy to teach with the correct method. Tugging on the harness will hurt the dog and get him confused. This is the same with yelling. In taking your dog for walk and in training your dog, there is much more considered necessary than just a good dog trainer and an obedient and intelligent dog. You will need a lot of dog training accessories, but generally the most popular of all of them will be the dog training harness.
A dog training harness was made to take the place of dog collars. Usually, time-honored dog collars can cause irritation, choking, and coughing for a dog when the pressure is applied if the collar is pulled while training or walking. Dog training harnesses help your dog escape such dreadful circumstances. A dog harness is placed over the dog’s upper body such as the shoulders and ribcage. Its grip extends to the dog’s front legs. As a result, the dog escapes choking since the pressure exerted while pulling is evenly distributed throughout the upper body of the dog. The pressure is then relieved and the dog escapes irritations caused by pulling. Also, the dog can freely bark, catch and track things without the restraints from the collar irritation. These harnesses come in various designs and sizes. This wide variety is one of the reasons why many dog owners find it very difficult to choose the right dog training harness for their lovable pooch. Regardless of the size however, the most important rule in choosing the right harness is to make sure you put function and not fashion first. Make sure that the dog training harness fully serves its purpose, that is to be able help the keeper/trainer control, guide or manage the dog’s behavior. The most popular types of dog training harnesses are those that are made of leather. For dogs that belong to the large breeds, the commonly used harness for them will be made of more durable materials. Another factor to take into consideration when choosing the right dog training harness is the dog’s temperament and breed.
Comfort for both the dog and the trainer is a vital factor to be considered as well. The training harness should be one that the dog wants to use. It should be lightweight and it should be hypoallergenic to the dog. It should not pose any threat to the health and the growth of your dog. In addition to that, the right harness should be able to ease your problem in controlling a rather stubborn pooch when exposed to strangers or when you are outdoors. The right dog training harness is often expected to be the favorite training equipment of both the dog and the trainer. Last but not the least; a dog harness should be durable and strong. It should be able to handle the pressure of puppies that are hard to control, or those who simply have aggressive behaviors, or who get easily over excited. It should also be able to resist the pressure and strength exerted by larger dog breeds. In order to start getting your dog used to wearing one, it helps to put him in the harness to get the feel of it. Let him wear it while you walk him on leash the first time. Do not leave a young dog, or any dog for that matter, unattended with a harness; they have a tendency to chew through them, or get themselves caught on something and into trouble. This really is one of the more safer methods of training one can use with their dog, and a dog that is safer and happier will learn better in the end.

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Stopping Dog Aggression

December 20th, 2009

Aggressive Dog Behavior

Aggressive dog attacks, whether against people or other dogs, can be one of the worst problems of dog ownership. Dog aggression is a common behavior and comes from the fact that the dog is a pack animal and its normal instinct is to compete, right from the time it is born.

It has to compete for food ( even from the very early days when it is suckling from the mother), it has to compete for status and for respect. When the dog joins a human family, he still thinks of it as a pack and will try to establish his position in the that hierarchy. If the dog is allowed, or even encouraged to believe that he is the Alpha Dog, then you have Trouble!

In most cases, this is the fault of the owner, especially if the dog is aquired as a puppy. A puppy can’t dominate its owner or the household, it is only if dangerous and aggressive behavior is tolerated or even encouraged during adolescence that you end up with aggression in the adult dog. Your dog must Respect You, Trust You and Love you — in that order!

Reasons for Dog Aggression.

It is most important to understand that there are several different reasons for dog aggression. It can be difficult to determine what the real reason is. One of the most misunderstood is aggression due to fear or anxiety. The dog is not looking for trouble, he feels he is defending himself against some perceived threat or danger.

The dog may be exhibiting territorial aggression. This is more common in certain breeds, which have been bred as guard dogs or herding dogs over centuries and have a strong genetic instinct to protect their territory and their family.

Mistreatment or abuse by previous owners may be a factor in the case of an adult dog, adopted from a Rescue Center. Such dogs need a careful balance of kindness and discipline. You must definitely be the Alpha Dog in this situation (as in every other situation).

Where a normally placid dog suddenly becomes aggressive, this may be due to a painful medical condition or ailment and the dog is nervous of increased pain if handled or upset. Vetinary advice is essential if pain or illness is suspected as the cause of the unusual, dangerous behavior.

Overly Aggressive Dog Breeds.

The subject of the most aggressive dog breeds causes much controversy and vociferous debate. Owners of Rottweilers, Dobermans, Pit Bull terriers and German Shepherd dogs spring to the defence of their pets, stressing how loving, reliable and trustworthy they are. When properly trained, socialized and integrated with family, friends and other dogs, this is usually true. However, these breeds have been bred and used for many years with the express purpose of guarding and protecting property, family and livestock. This strong protective instinct is in their genes and is thus more likely to result in aggressive behavior.

These breeds suffer from two further disadvantages with regard to their reputation for aggression towards people and other dogs. Because of the jobs they were originally bred for, they are large, strong and athletic dogs, so when attacks do occur, the damage they inflict is serious. More small children are killed by these dogs than by all other breeds combined. The public perception being what it is, people frequently give the wrong signals to these breeds, with their body language exhibiting signs of fear and submissiveness.

It is important to note that dogs that display dog-aggressive behaviour do not necessarily show aggressive behaviour towards humans. The two types of aggression are not necessarily related, and do not always occur in the same animal.

Aggression over Food

Remember the wolf pack in the wild. The alpha male and female get first servings and the rest of the pack compete for what they can get. It is ingrained in the dog’s nature that he has to be protective of his food and show a certain amount of aggression, otherwise he will starve.

Even in the normal domestic situation, food is important to your dog. Mealtimes are one of the highlights of his day. This is a double-edged situation. It is your ideal opportunity to show your dog who is The Boss. He can’t use a can opener, he can’t operate the microwave, he can’t draw a bowl of water. He is totally dependent on you for his food (and all other needs).

At mealtimes, insist that he sits or lies down a few feet away. If he won’t do it, put the food away and leave him. It won’t take long for him to get the message - the food comes along, only when he he sits and waits for it. Ideally, this routine should be practised when the dog is a puppy, so it will be normal behavior when he grows up. If your dog is already adult and aggressive, then there is all the more reason to implement this method of gaining control.

There is a load of Free information on Aggressive Dog Behavior at allabout-dogs.co.uk which also covers all aspects of dog ownership, including Dog Training, Dog Breeds, Dog Food and Dog Health.
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Housebreaking your Dog or Puppy

December 20th, 2009

Dogs want to please their owners.One of the problems is that they are not clear about what the owner wants.Just because the dog owner turns the dog out in the yard a few times a day does not mean that the dog is getting the right message.

Dogs don’t always make the connection that they were put outside to give him the opportunity to “go”. It is therefore, the dog owners’ responsibility to see to it that a connection is made.The dog owner should find a way of preventing the dog or puppy from going in the house and only having the opportunity to go outside.The dog will learn to communicate with the owner about going when told to go and will learn to let the dog owner know when he needs to go.

One of the easiest ways to housebreak a dog is by using his natural instinct of keeping his sleeping quarters clean.In the wild dogs would sleep in a den.We can provide a “den” in the form of a dog crate. This becomes his bed - a bed he cannot get out of.

In order for this approach to work it is important that the crate be the appropriate size.A ‘too big’ would allow room for the dog to go and still continue to sleep in another area of the crate.One that is too small would not allow for comfort.

By providing a crate you are mimicking a natural den, which is what your dog would seek if he was in the wild on his own.He would not want to be out in the open, but rather he would want the security of a tree trunk, cave or other available shelter.

Since puppies naturally spend a great deal of time sleeping they will soon associate the crate with sleeping. Giving the dog or puppy a treat or two each time they enter the crate can help to make this a positive experience for the animal and less stressful for the owner.Saying the word “Crate” at the time the dog enters will help the dog associate the term with the crate.This will be the beginning of training for the future.For example, you may want to command your dog to go to his crate when there is a knock at your door.

Allowing the dog or puppy out only to relieve himself should be your initial goal. As the dog learns and gains more control, the time outside of the crate can be extended.The crate can be kept near you so you can alleviate the dog fears and give him attention as well as frequent treats. The crate should not be used as a punishment.This is the dog den.It’s his place of safety.Make it comfortable for him. Provide toys and treats as well.

Each time that you take the dog out, immediately take him outdoors to relieve himself.When he “goes” make an issue of it by lavishing him with praise. Make sure your dog realizes that he has pleased you. After your dog has relieved himself you should take him back inside.This is to build the association of the outdoors with “going”.

Your dog will need to relieve himself after sleeping, eating and exercise.If you let your dog run loose you should partition off a section of the house or a room in order that you can keep up with him and any messes he may make.Many people find baby gates useful for this. It is advisable to keep a very close watch on your dog until you are certain he is housebroken. He will not make a mistake but you might….your mistake might be letting your dog run loose too soon.

By keeping your dog in a crate and only letting him out to go outdoors or out when you will be watching him closely, your dog will be housebroken very quickly.The process is practically fail proof.In addition it provides your dog with a space that he feels is his own.

Dechen Lau is an Author, Speaker, and Consultant specializing in Internet Marketing and Web SolutionsPuppy LoverPuppy Lover Hubpages
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Pet Health - How To Keep Your Dog Safe

December 20th, 2009

Sadly enought, reventable accidents are also a leading cause of early death for many dogs. Veternarians often see dogs injured as the resutl off car accidents, from dogfights, or who suffer from accidental poisonings.
While accidents sometimes happen no matter how many precautions are taken, there are things you can do to help keep your dog as safe as possible.
Protect Your Dog From Vehicular Accidents And Dog Fights
Never let your dog outside unaccompanied. Try to keep your dog in a fenced-in yard. Reduce the possibility of dogfights by introducing your dog slowly to other dogs. Or, better yet, keep other dogs away from your dog. Most dogfights occur when dogs are outside by themselves. Also, be sure your dog cannot run out of the house or escape from your yard. If you live in an area where there are any vehicles - even golf carts or mopeds - watch the dog closely. And when you walk your dog, make sure it is on a secure leash.
Dangerous dogfights can also occur when there are multiple dogs in the same household. If you own more than one dog, and they continue to fight, you may need to permanently separate them.
Train Your Dog To Respond To Your Commands
A big part of keeping your dog safe involves training, so your dog will respond to your voice in any situation. You may find you need an obedience training class to achieve this. You will also need to practive obedience training througout your dog’s lifetime.
The reason for this obedience training is that one day your dog might dash outside without a leash, and you would be able to quickly call it back before it gets into a fight or suffers an accident. Training your dog can save its life. And working with it will also help you and your dog develop a stronger bond.
Protect Your Dog From Accidental Poisoning
Every year, dogs around the world die from accidental poisoning. These are often caused by rodent poisons that have been placed around the home or in outside areas where a dog can access them. While your veternarian may be able to successfully treat one of these poisonings, they can still lead to permanent organ damage. If you use any poisonous products around your home, make sure your dog will not be able to reach them.
Poisoning accidents can also occur from products around the home that are deadly, but do not have a bad taste or smell. Your dog might ingest one of these out of curiosity, thirst, or hunger.
One example of a dangerous household product that can fatally poison dogs is anti-freeze. While it is a hazardous chemical, it actually has a slightly sweet taste that can appeal to both dogs and cats. Make sure there is no spilled anti-freeze around your home or in your neighborhood. Also, be aware of any other products in or around your home that could harm your dog.
Other more common accidental poisonings occur when ogs eat prescription medications and over-the-counter drugs. These drugs may taste horrible to us, but for some reason, dogs seem to find pills particularly appetizing. You may not think that your dog wouldn’t be tempted to eat a bottle of xanax, but this does happen.
In fact, some pet owners recently discovered that their dogs were obsessed with getting into anti-depressant medications. While some of these stories are amusing, the consequences that dogs can suffer from overdosing on these drugs are serious. Always keep over-the-counter drugs and prescription medications far out of reach of your dog.
Microchip Your Dog
Chipping your dog is one of the most proactive steps you can take to keep your dog safe and healthy. If, at some time, you and your dog become separated, a microchip can help you reunite with your dog. If your dog becomes lost there is always the possibility that another person might adopt it. A lost dog can also suffer from starvation, get in fights with other animals, or be run over by a car.
When you can’t claim your dog
Dogs that are lost are frequently picked up and brought to humane animal shelters. But if the dog is not claimed or adopted within a specified amount of time, it will most likely be euthanized.
However, if your dog does become lost and ends up in an animal shelter, a microchip will quickly identify
it, removing any chance that it is euthanized.
A microchip will also help to identify your dog if you are separated from it in an emergency. Mandatory evacuations caused by fires, floods, and storms are notorious for separating dogs and their frantic owners. So if you do become separated from your dog in an emergency, a microchip can bring the two of you back together.

There are a number of other things you can do to help ensure your dog lives a long life. We offer a free 10-page report titled. “How to Help Your Dog Live a Long, Healthy, Happy Life.” a target=”_new”
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here to get your free copy
The author, Douglas Hanna, and his wife currently share their home with a Wheatland Terrier named Emma Lou and Jake, a Cairn Terrier
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Aggressive Dogs — Can They be Re-Trained?

December 19th, 2009

Having an aggressive dog is not only a problem to the dog owner, but also to other people. You will never know when your dog may attack or injure someone. In fact, dog aggression can result in injuries and even deaths of innocent people, and there are many laws and by-laws that are imposed to punish dog owners whose dogs are guilty of physical assault.
Find the cause of aggression before re-training
If you have an aggressive dog, you should know that it is possible to curb its aggression with the right training. With proper training, aggressive dogs will learn not to be hostile towards strangers, or your friends and relatives. However, if you really wish to understand the basics of re-training aggressive dogs, you have to know why dogs become aggressive.
There are numerous reasons why a dog can become aggressive. The main reason may be that it is territorial and feels that its territory is being invaded. Sometimes, it feels threatened with certain changes in the environment, and it will become defensive and react with aggression. This type of aggression usually comes about because of lack of security and confidence, and simple dog obedience training is not sufficient to curb the aggressive behavior of the dog.
Such aggression requires special dog training. The usual symptoms of dog aggression are barking and lunging at people. These symptoms have to be controlled before they become a serious problem that causes bodily harm on other people.
Ask your dog vet to suggest an aggressive dog trainer
Since a dog vet often meets with trainers and dog owners, he or she is the best person to approach when you are looking for the perfect aggressive dog trainer. A qualified trainer will have the necessary experience to control the aggressive behavior of any dog. However, remember that aggressive dog training costs more than normal dog training, and it is usually done with a special skill set. So, set aside sufficient money to pay for this kind of training.
Though you have to pay quite a large sum of money for aggressive dog training, you can be assured that you will get the results that you desire. It is not advisable that you enroll your aggressive dog for normal dog training classes because the trainers will not take any risk to train it with other dogs in the school.
Some training schools may harm your dog
Instead, your dog has to be sent to a special dog obedience training school where qualified trainers have the necessary skills and knowledge to handle aggressive dogs. You can use the yellow pages to find the best training school for your dog. One thing you have to consider when choosing the right trainer for your dog is the training method employed by the training school.
You should avoid training schools that use obsolete training methods that can cause harm to your dog.
It is always better to choose a more experienced dog training school. This is because such a school will have the necessary experience and knowledge to train aggressive dogs effectively. As such, it will produce better results with the re-training of dogs.
With the right aggressive dog training techniques, it is possible to train your dog to control its aggression. Once your dog stops its aggressive behavior, you will find that it is indeed a loving companion, and you can spend valuable time with it.
Without the aggressive behavior, you need not worry about the safety of your family or that the dog will bite other dogs or people.
Use websites for dog training tips
If there are no aggressive dog training schools or trainers in your vicinity, you can also search the internet to learn some tips on how to curb your dog’s aggression. There are some sites on the internet that provide these tips. However, whether or not such tips are effective depends on how you understand and implement them on your dog.

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Choose a Dog Based on Personality Test Findings

December 19th, 2009

Adopting a dog? Consider it’s personality. Personalities among humans can clash and so it is between dogs and humans. By knowing the dog’s personality, you can avoid headaches later on.

Knowing a puppy’s personality before you commit to buying or adopting him will help you to make a wise choice in selecting the right puppy for you. A personality test will assist you in determining why he doesn’t accomplish certain disciplinary objectives.

Checking your puppy’s personality starts with understanding his breed, because many of his characteristics will be inherited. If you don’t know the specific breed, try to determine what breed cross he might be and refer to those personalities to see if they fit.

There are some excellent books in the library to help you figure out how your particular breed of dog thinks and reacts. Alternatively, you can ask a breeder or your vet.

As long as your puppy is over seven weeks of age, you can get a good result from a personality test. The main personality types are responsive, strong willed, energetic, timid, easygoing and aggressive although you’re likely to see a mixture, depending on the mixture of breeds and the circumstances. For instance, a dog might be easygoing around the family, but aggressive around strangers. This is common in dogs that are protective, rather than social and friendly.

Friendliness Test

The friendliness test will determine if your dog is a socializer.

Take the puppy into a quiet area, free of other distractions and whine like a young puppy or talk to him in a friendly, affectionate voice. You’re trying to see what kind of response you get. If he cocks his head to one side, becomes alert and happy, then he has a responsive personality.

If he ignores you initially and then runs around, jumps all over you and gives you friendly barks and nips, he is a high-energy dog.

A strong willed dog will become alert and will away again barking and eventually come to you. A timid dog will whine back and bark before crawling up to you with his tail down and his ears pulled back.

An easy going dog will show be more laid back and seem not to care. He is quick to lose interest in your whining, most likely because he’s decided it really doesn’t matter to him.

If the dog lunges at you and growls with his ears and tail standing straight up (rather than curled or dropped and relaxed) he is an aggressive dog with dominant qualities. If he barks, backs away and crouches down yet remains defensive, he is showing fear aggression. Fear aggression is common in dogs that have been abused.

You can do other tests as well. You can test a dog’s sensitivity to noises, how he reacts to discipline, and how tolerant he is to pain and discomfort.

Sound Test

For the sound test, put some pennies into a tin can and shake it to see how your dog responds. Keep in mind that dogs have sensitive ears and are able to hear sounds humans can’t. This test could reveal that your puppy might have hearing problems or that he is “gun shy”.

Move away from distractions and, from half a dozen feet distance from the dog, shake the can to make a noise. Try to hide the can behind your back as seeing it might clue him in to what’s causing the noise. We want the noise to be unexpected.

A responsive dog will perk up when he hears the noise and become inquisitive about its source. If you had rolled the can on the floor to make the noise, he would see it as a toy and begin playing with it.

A high-energy dog will respond to the noise, but will become easily distracted. He might even bark at the noise as if trying to scare it away.

Shy dogs will back away and lower his ears and tail while raising the hair on the back of his neck. This is a submissive posture. It’s common for shy or timid dogs to run and hide from loud noises.

An easygoing dog will saunter up to the noise, check it out but will soon return to whatever he was doing.

An aggressive dog backs away, growls, curls his lips and will make direct eye contact with you as if in defiance. A fear aggressive dog, on the other hand, will crouch and take a submissive stance. Such dogs often will urinate as a sign of submission.

Discipline Test

The discipline test can be helpful when you think about how easy it might be to train this particular dog. Understanding this aspect of his temperament can be useful in determining the methods you’ll need to use during the training process.

Be careful when issuing this test as an aggressive dog might try to attack you or bite you. If you suspect that the dog is aggressive, you might want to skip the first version of this test. Do not continue this particular test if the dog demonstrates that he is fearful.

Version 1: Raise your hand and pretend to hit the dog, but don’t actually hit him. If he shows curiosity and stays happy or ignores you, he has either a responsive, easygoing or a high-energy personality. If he cowers, flinches, ducks his head or wets, this is a timid, shy and insecure dog.

A dominant dog will growl, curl his lips, snarl and perhaps bite. If this happens, it’s best to stop the test for your own safety. A fear aggressive dog will respond in a similar way, trying to bite as a way to protect himself. A dog that responds this way, in all likelihood, has been abused or mistreated in the past.

Tolerance test

This test will be beneficial if you have children around. By knowing how much your dog can tolerate, you will be better informed whether this dog is a good choice for you and your family. This test isn’t so much to discover his personality as it is to determine how much discomfort your dog can tolerate.

A dog that is pain intolerant might be suffering from a disease such as arthritis or Hip Displasia, from previous mistreatment or simply from its breeding. Children, for example, tend to like pulling a dog’s tail or ears or riding the dog, which can be painful to the animal.

There are three areas you can test (tail, toes, skin), but for this article, we’ll discuss the tail, since that’s an easy target for many children and even some adults.

Keep in mind that you don’t want to hurt the dog. Pull his tail gently and see how your dog reacts.

If he turns and mouths your hand without really trying to bite and even becomes playful, it’s evident this puppy has a safe tolerance level. If the dog tries to stop you or tolerates it for a short time and tries to move away, he has an average tolerance level.

If the dog yelps, growls and snaps while trying to get away, he has a poor pain tolerance. If he bites and growls, the dog has very little or no tolerance whatsoever. If you have children, you might want to choose a different dog, or teach your children not to pull the dog’s tail.

Knowing a dog’s personality and temperament before he comes to your home is helpful in making a wise decision in choosing a suitable pet for your family.

You can gain access to your own free copy of Sylvia’s latest booklet, “Unveiling the Myths & Mysteries of Owning a Puppy” by Clicking Here!
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Top 7 Dog Myths

December 19th, 2009

Myths about dogs can endanger your dog’s safety if believed and acted upon. Canine Kingdom exposes myths, old wives’ tales and methods of communicating with dogs that do not work. Canine Kingdom will further refine and massively communicate our knowledge base about dogs — so that an accurate understanding of dogs is clear, widely held, and protected. To separate fact from fiction, Canine Kingdom brings you debunked myths, verified facts, and statistically proven methods.

Dogs must have bones!

The most common symbol associated with dogs, the ‘bone’, is actually damaging to dogs! It is an erroneous myth that dogs should have bones. Unless you are working with a specialist or are experienced in raw feeding do not give dogs raw food or bones. Dogs have dental care needs just like humans. Their teeth wear down from hard bones, and can even break. Cooked bones should never be given to dogs. The heat changes the chemical and physical properties of bones and they resist digestion and cannot be chewed properly, splintering into jagged shards. There are several options available to provide your dogs the chewing exercise they love and crave: Kongs; ‘fill n freeze’ nylon bones; and tough (but soft) chew toys.

Never disturb a dog when he’s eating

One of the highest incidence rates of dog bites occurs when a dog’s food is disturbed. Dog parents may conclude it’s best not to disturb a dog when he’s eating. But what it really means is that your dog sees you and/or your kids as a threat, rather than the best thing that’s ever happened to him. Every dog should learn to look forward to the presence of people near their bowl because he’s going to get a surprise yummy treat. To do this, start by hand feeding your dog-using an open palm. Then, each time you feed your dog, disturb his bowl or food in some way - starting with touching your dog and working your way to actually putting your hand in his bowl. That way, when someone inadvertently knocks his bowl over or a child reaches for his food, he won’t respond as though his meal is being threatened.

A cold, wet nose, indicates a healthy dog

The nose of a healthy dog should be at normal body temperature unless he is out in cold, wintry air (just like our noses). So remember, it is not a wet nose that tells you your dog is healthy, but rather a dry, hot nose that tells you something may be wrong.

Brushing is good for the coat

This is a partial myth. While brushing is necessary to keep your dog’s coat clean and detangled between baths, brushing too hard can roughen the hair cuticle, exposing its cortex and leaving the hair porous and frayed. Rule of thumb - if you can hear the brush, you are brushing too hard!

You must have a yard for your dog

Absolutely not true! Dogs are social animals, so they ultimately want to be with you. Ninety-nine percent of the time when a dog is in the yard, he’s hanging out at the back door waiting to come back inside with you. And you’ll notice that even inside a 10,000-square-foot house, the dog will tend to be right by your feet.

Dogs should not be fed table scraps

This is one of the most widespread myths the manufacturers of some pet food products perpetuate. They claim that table scraps will upset the balance of the commercial dog food. Just like humans, dogs should not be fed the same meal every single day of their lives. Dietary deficiencies do not appear overnight but need a long period of consistently poor nutrition to develop. Dogs will not automatically get fat, learn to beg at the table, or refuse to eat their own food just because they are fed table scraps. They will, however, do those things for various other reasons, like being overfed or trained that they can get food from your table. Feed your dog ‘human’ food in their bowls.

Pit Bulls have locking jaws

According to Dr. Sandy deLaHunta, a noted dog neurologist, and Dr. Katherine Houpt, a dog behaviorist, there is no such thing as “jaw locking” or a “jaw locking mechanism” in pit bulls or in any breed of dog.

They both concurred that the power of the bite is proportional to the size of the jaws and the jaw muscles. And they concluded that there is no anatomical structure that could be a locking mechanism in any dog.

Do you have a myth about dogs that has proven to be false? A fact that has proven to be true? Please send your myths and facts with proof of verification to:

Research@Canine Kingdom.com

Mary Beth Close founded For the Love of Dogs, Inc., the holding company for Canine Kingdom in 1999. Her vision is to end the unnecessary and unintentional abuse pet dogs suffer because we do not understand them. Canine Kingdom researches, organizes, develops, and validates information, methods and products regarding dog communication, training, and care needs. Canine Kingdom is an independent corporation and is not affiliated with any other pet related company, professional, or organization

Canine Kingdom researches, organizes, develops, and validates information, methods and products regarding Dog Care , Dog Safety and Dog Myths needs. Canine Kingdom is an independent corporation and is not affiliated with any other pet related company, professional, or organization
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